How to Install Shower and Bathtub

When thinking for installing a shower or bathtub, it is very important to note that the pipes required include the hot as well as cold supply lines, other than a pipe leading to a shower head. Also, many experts often suggest a blending valve and shower head for the installation, including air chambers.

Usually, the bath or shower fixtures rate low in fixture units. So they are often placed on the branch drains and wet or back vented as are the sinks. Accordingly, both the shower stalls and tubs enter the stack at floor level or below due to the angle of which the floor drain trap is positioned.

When it comes to faucet and shower head assembly, one should note that it requires an open wall for installation. Also worthy of consideration is that, bathtubs and shower stalls may need support framing. One of the common ideas here is that a bathtub filled with water is extremely heavy; therefore, it is important to examine first the building codes, including the framing support prior to the bathtub installation. There is also a required floor area for a shower stall. According to some experts, a minimum area required is 1,024 square inches, but you should also allow 24 inches from the stall itself to any other fixture or wall.

Here are the basic guidelines:

1. All piping should be installed before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the tub into place. This will allow a continuous flange to fit against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. In relation to this, don’t forget to anchor the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws ensconced through the flanges into the studs.
3. Put together the drain connections. This can be done by way of attaching the tub overflow with the tub drain above the trap, and not beyond it. Note that the trap will have a compression fitting that screw over the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Run the hot and cold water lines to the tub or shower mixing valve where they are attached. You can do this by sweating these directly into the hot and cold ports of the mixing valve.
5. Run a pipe up the wall for the shower head. Note however that on the top of this pipe, you should sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed or screwed into a framing support.
6. A piece of 1/2” pipe should be extended, but this must be in accordance to the instructions provided by the manufacturer, for the tub spout. Also sweat on a male threaded fitting at the end of the pipe or employ a brass nipple of the proper length as well as a 1/2” cap.
7. At this time, you will need to have your rough plumbing checked.
8. Restore water pressure and inspect the drain connection, including the supply pipes for any leaks.
9. Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your wall covering. Also important to note is to seal joints between the wall and your new tub perhaps with silicone caulk. This caulk will serve as protection against water seepage.
10. It is now time to install the handles, shower head and Spout. Note that the shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. And, whether you are installing a new shower head or replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply a new pipe joint compound. You can also consider a Teflon tape or both to prevent leaks.