As you may know, a bathtub surround (commonly known as wall kit) is an easy way to provide a handsome, watertight and easy-to-maintain barrier around a tub or shower alcove. These surrounds can be put up over plaster, tile, drywall or any solid and flat wall. Well, there some surround kits in the market these days. Most kits contain either three or five pieces that overlap to account for different dimensions. Also, these kits include instructions, which you should consider reading before you leave the store. When installing a bathtub surround, you may require an adhesive as well as color-matched caulk, so consider buying these from the store.
Now, you want to know the basics for installing a tub surround in your home? Here are the steps:
Step 1: Prepare Walls
Before anything else, it is important for you to save carton to use as a template. Then, start preparing the walls of the alcove by first removing the faucet spout and handles. You can remove these by trimming with screwdrivers, adjustable wrench or Allen wrench, as needed. Proceed to removing any soap dish or other obstacles. Then make any needed repairs to ensure that the existing surface is solid and secure. However, if the surface is slick, such as ceramic tile, consider sanding it with coarse sandpaper. Clean and re-caulk the tub joint.
One particular tip for this step is to consider installing support handrails to make your tub safer, especially if the framing is exposed. Also the rails must be anchored into framing or to wood blocking between studs about 21 inches above.
Step 2: Consider Measuring
Many experts suggest measuring the spout and faucet locations and transfer measurements onto a cardboard template that you cut from the shipping carton. Also, position the template on the wall and make any necessary modifications before tracing the openings onto the end wall panel.
The main tip here is to write “wall” on one side just to remind you which way the template must be positioned, especially when tracing cutouts onto the end panel.
Step 3: Create Cuts
As traced in the second step, you should cut the appropriate size holes in the panel by using a hole saw bit in an electric drill. How to do this? Okay! Place the panel face up on a scrap of plywood or other surface employed for drilling.
The tip here is to employ a jigsaw with fine-tooth blade to cut the large hole for a single valve control. Also, you can consider boring 3/8-inch starter hole for the saw blade anywhere inside the cutout area.
Step 4: Consider Trial-Fitting
Before considering trial-fitting, you should mark centerlines and level top lines on the walls and panels. If done, trial fit the sections of the wall in the order directed by the manufacturer. Also consider examining the tops and centerlines if aligned, or if the tops are leveled. Then, secure them with masking tape and trace the top edges on the wall with a pencil before removing the panels.
The tip for this fourth step is, if you need to cut a penal, employ the tool recommended by the manufacturer of the kit. Several of them can be cut with a number passes of a utility knife guided by a straightedge. Note that such toll produces the cleanest cut. And, a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade may also be used.
Step 5: Fix Panels
You can fix panels by applying adhesive in beads with a caulking gun or spread with notched trowel, as recommended by the kit manufacturer. Also note that some of the panels may have peel-and-stick tape. You can also press the panels into place on your pencil lines. Some makers however suggest that you brace the walls with lumber until the adhesive has cured.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
After applying adhesives, allow it to cure for up to 24 hours before you apply a finish bead of caulk to all joints. This must be done in accordance to what is directed by the manufacturer. Then, replace the faucet spout and handles. Also allow caulk to cure as directed by the manufacturer before using the tub.
The idea here is to cut the tip of the caulk tube at a 45-degree angle and start with a small hole. Also, you can make it larger but not smaller.
Materials You Will Need
Based on the given steps for installing a bathroom surround, here is a list of the materials you will need:
- Tape measure
- Level ( 2-ft. min.)
- Hole saw bits
- Utility knife
- Adhesive
- Allen wrench
- Bathtub surround kit
- V-notched trowel or caulking gun
- Pencil
- Electric drill
- Jigsaw
- Roofing cement
- Adjustable wrench
- Caulk
- Lumber to brace walls
- Standard and Phillips screwdrivers
Installing a Bathtub Enclosure
Bathtub enclosures in the first place are a necessary finishing touch to a drop-in tub or a whirlpool tub. So, if you are considering any of those kinds of tub, then consider installing an enclosure.
Installing a bathtub enclosure is actually not as difficult as it looks. You can build it even with a little skill and of course with the right materials. Consider the following:
Types and Sizes
One of the most important considerations when it comes to building a bathtub enclosure is the type of the tub. In particular, the drop-in bathtubs that are made specifically for bathtub enclosures are said to be the best to build around. But, the whirlpool bathtubs are also great for building enclosures around.
An enclosure is basically necessary to hide the water pipes on both the drop-in and whirlpool tubs. So, it is important that when you consider building one, make sure to work around the plumbing as well as the draining systems to avoid interfering with pipes.
Here are the most recommended steps on how to build a bathtub enclosure:
Step 1: Building a Tub Frame
You can start building a tub enclosure by framing your tub. Construct a frame out of 2 x 4 lumber for every side of the tub not connected to the wall. Every side of the frame should compose of 2 pieces of wood the length of the side it is adjacent to. The two long pieces are supported by 2 x 4 studs placed every 16 inches. Then, the frame should be about 3/4-inch below the rim of the tub, just enough for the plywood and the tile to fit under the rim. Proceed by nailing the frames together and then attach each frame to the wall and floor with nails and construction adhesive of your choice.
Step 2: Attaching the Frame to the Wall and Floor
As often recommended, you can make the ledge of your enclosure as wide as you want. To extend your ledge on both sides, construct a second frame a few inches longer than the first and then install it parallel to the first frame. If in case you want your ledge to be wider than 16 inches, then build a third frame. Proceed by anchoring these additional extensions to the wall and floor parallel to the previously installed frames.
Step 3: Covering and Sealing the Frame
How to cover the frame? Simply attach ½ inch CDX plywood to the sides and tops of the frame with nails. There is also an alternative for that. Just use a moisture resistant wallboard. Also, use a caulk to seal all of the joints between the bathtub and the covered frame. Coat the wallboard or plywood with moisture resistant primer in order to seal it. And, let the primer dry completely.
Step 4: Tiling of the Tub Enclosure
You can cover the plywood or wallboard with a tile, wood or any finishing material once it is dry. Then, seal the finishing material well with tile grout, and proceed by caulking all the joints to prevent water damage.
Step 5: Caulking of the Joints
Once the tile or finishing material has been caulked and dried, you can apply a layer of caulk around the bathtub. Simply line all the edges of the tub with masking tape to make a straight line with the caulk. Then, apply the caulk to the edges of the tub and smooth it with your finger. Let it dry thoroughly and remove the tape.
That’s simply it! So, good luck with your bathroom installation project.
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